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A Victorian Diary 1

Since deciding to allow myself to put anything/everything on hold and simply sew whatever I feel like at the time, I decided to leave the 18th C for a while and hop over to the victorian era. For some reason (and I'm sure Freud would love this one) I seem drawn to periods with big bums, so I won't leave my deriere in the 18th C. No natural form here, I'm talking either early bustle or late bustle period victorian. While I'm still pining for a lovely early bustle dress with a huge train and lots of trim, it seems rather impractical and also fabric-consuming, so I have my eyes set on a late bustle dress for my first victorian. (The fact that I already own the TV 4 gore and wash skirts might also have helped :)

The Plan:
Inspiration: this 1883 bustle dress and this early bustle (must remind self not to gawk at early bustles anymore)

Patterns:
Underpinnings:
Chemise - drafting a new one from Hunnisett
Bustle - Hunnisett
Bloomers - already have these
Corset - will draft a new one using Your Wardrobe Unlock'd
Dress:
Petticoat - TV 4 gore with flounce
Underskirt - TV 4 gore with box pleat/ruffle
Overskirt - TV Wash skirt
Bodice - will draft from Hunnisett

Fabrics:
All underpinnings will be white cotton of various weights, with the corset in this coutil:

Right now the plan is to use this taffeta for the dress:


So Far:
I have already started on the underpinnings. I had 3 different weights of cotton at home, washed and ready. Last week I drafted a chemise based on a mishmash of many sources but mostly Hunnisett. It's sewn up and needs to be gathered at the neckline and of course decoratetd with lots of lovely lace. I splurged at my favourite lace and trim shop in town and bought 10 meters total of 3 different kinds of victorian repro lace. Here's a pic of the chemise on Mimi and my lace finds.


I've also drafted a bustle based on the 8 steel bustle in Hunnisett and the same kind in Corsets and Crinolines. The base is 10 cm larger, and the bustle back 20 cm larger than the Hunnisett, so as to maximise the bustle oumph. The bustle will be flounced with an antique lace from Jo's grandma. I had it and both crinoline steel and boning tube at home so I thought that the bustle would be finished in an evening, but I discovered that the boning tube was too narrow, so the bustle is put aside until I'm ready to order more from Vena Cava. Which won't be until I've got measurements for the steel to go in the corset (I have a coupon so I want to bunch it all up in one order).

This means the corset needs to be drafted and have a successful mock-up so I can measure the steels needed. I've started to draft the pattern using the class in Your Wardrobe Unlock'd and it seems quite smooth. I'm hoping to have a mockup by the end of this week.

All of the underpinnings will have lace with ribbons threaded through, and I'm trying to decide on a contrasting colour. I'm thinking either grey to just have a neutral colour, or maybe a dark crimson red for a crisp effect against the white fabrics. I think I'm gonna attempt flossing on the corset in this colour too.

Comments

( 13 comments — Leave a comment )
quincy134
Jan. 16th, 2008 12:30 pm (UTC)
Oooh, I like your plans! This will be beautiful.
vanityfairy
Jan. 17th, 2008 08:39 am (UTC)
Thanks, let's just hope I'll persevere ;)
bauhausfrau
Jan. 16th, 2008 01:04 pm (UTC)
I love the fashion plate you're using for inspiration. Sounds like it's going to be tres chic.

Oh and I have the same love of fashions with big bums. Really weird considering I've got more than the usual amount of padding back there already.
vanityfairy
Jan. 17th, 2008 08:42 am (UTC)
haha, I think of it more like making the most of the bum I have - bum-enhancement =)
madamekat
Jan. 19th, 2008 02:30 pm (UTC)
Fabulous!!

TV 216 Parisian Trained Skirt IS the early plaid bustle skirt from the cover of that book. Heather is too fabulous to have re-created that for us!!
vanityfairy
Jan. 21st, 2008 02:50 pm (UTC)
Oh really?! Wow, I had no idea! I have been eyeing that parisian skirt for a while but I thought it looked overly complicated. Now I'm getting indecicive again... =)
Maybe I should rethink and do early bustle instead.
Or maybe I should do the late bustle first as planned but in a different fabric and save the plaid for a later parisian project.

Hmmmm...
madamekat
Jan. 21st, 2008 02:57 pm (UTC)
It was hard for me to choose my first TV project, too! I've made the TV 216 twice. The first was my very first Victorian gown project. I chose the wrong kind of fabric - med weight upholstery- and it was really too heavy for the skirt. The 2nd time I chose the silk taffeta and I loved it!
It's not too complicated...just takes a lot of fabric!
vanityfairy
Jan. 21st, 2008 03:15 pm (UTC)
Oh you have made it? where might I behold the beauty? And which pattern did you use for the top?
I calculated the yardage needed and actually the parisian needs 9 yards when the 4 gore + wash skirt will need 8,5 altogether - so same-same really.
Which so did not my decision any easier ;)
madamekat
Jan. 21st, 2008 03:59 pm (UTC)
See the pink number from the Spring 2005 Victorian party. I made the TV 416 ballgown bodice (too big, I might add...opps!)
http://mania.neverlight.com/Sites/kat/Site/Victorian_parties.html

Then I made it again using the TV 405 bodice...
http://mania.neverlight.com/Sites/kat/Site/Convergence_13_Photos_Part_2.html#grid

and then I made a ballgown bodice for it...
http://mania.neverlight.com/Sites/kat/Site/Events.html#33

Here it is with the train pulled up...
http://mania.neverlight.com/Sites/kat/Site/At_Clubs.html#64
vanityfairy
Jan. 23rd, 2008 09:31 am (UTC)
Wow, your parisians are really pretty! And the train can be pulled up you say... Hmm well that would rid me of one of my reluctances re the early bustle dresses. Ugh. Indecision...=]
jazz_in_paris
Jan. 24th, 2008 08:26 pm (UTC)
Hi! I added you as a friend, hope you don't mind! Your clothes are great! And lovely fabrics in this post! :)
vanityfairy
Jan. 25th, 2008 10:07 am (UTC)
Thanks! Of course I don't mind, I just friended you back =)
prince_b
Jan. 26th, 2008 07:36 am (UTC)
Hiya! I hope you don't mind I added you, your sewing projects seem great! :)
( 13 comments — Leave a comment )

Costume Plans

Current Projects:

15th c French Peasant
16th c Kampfrau
10th c Viking
18th c Pet-en-l'air
Kidlet sized costumes


Finished Projects:

2012
• 10th C linen Kidlet dress (by hand)
• 16th C Florentine child
• 10th C viking jacket for Jo (by hand)
• 20th C Titanic green
2011
• 18th C kci redstriped jacket
• 10th C viking underdress (by hand)
• 10th C viking apron dress (by hand)
• 10th C undershirt for Jo
• 10th C viking tunic for Jo
• 10th C viking pants for Jo
• 10th C Kidlet shift (by hand)
2010
• faux fur hat
• 18th C picture hat
• 18th C bumroll (by hand)
• 18th C CC-U jacket (by hand)
• wedding dress for Sister-in-law
• 18th C bjd fur breeches
• 16th C flemish kirtle (by hand)
• 16th C flemish linen partlet (by hand)
• 16th C flemish wool partlet (by hand)
• faux fur jacket
• 18th C cravatte for Jo
• 18th C waistcoat for Jo
• 18th C bjd gentleman's waistcoat
• 18th C pocket (by hand)
2009
• 18th C new stays
• 18th C bjd kci zone jacket
• 18th C cotton polonaise
• 18th C linen cap (by hand)
• 18th C bjd sherbert dress
• 18th C petticoat to match stays
• 18th C bjd breeches (by hand)
• 18th C petticoat (by hand)
• 18th C linen shift (by hand)
• 18th C bjd linen shirt (by hand)
• 16th C cranach
• 18th C bjd striped/blue
• leather UB corset
• 18th C sheer petticoat
• 18th C bjd chemise a la reine
2008
• gingerbread lolita
• grey viking pants(Jo)
• red viking pants (Jo)
• 19th C Sweeny Todd
• 19th C wash skirt
• 19th C four gore underskirt
• teapot lolita
• t-shirt doRedo pants
• 18th C breeches (Jo)
• 18th C shirt (Jo)
• 18th C shift
• 18th C petticoat
• 19th C chemise
• 19th C lobster bustle
2007
• X-mas plaid lolita
• Waist cincher corset
• 18th C stays
• 18th C uniform coat (Jo)
• 1910 UB corset
Kilt
2006 - 15C Dürer
2006 - Swan Dress
2005 - Corset Wench
2004 - 14C Workdress
2004 - Forest Fairy
2003 - 16C Doublet
2002 - 10C Viking Tent
2000 - 10C Viking
1995-2000 - all kinds of embarrassing costumes ;)



Resource Library:

Patterns of fashion 1
Patterns of Fashion 2
Patterns of Fashion
Costume in Detail
Historical Fashion in Detail - the 17th and 18th centuries
Period Costume for Stage & Screen 1500-1800
Period Costume for Stage & Screen 1800-1909
Corsets and crinolines
18th Century Embroidery Techniques
Eighteenth-Century French Fashions in Full Color
Medieval Tailor's Assistant

Your Wardrobe Unlock'd: The costume maker's companion

Foundations Revealed - the Corsetmaker's Companion
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