Hmm, yes, hi, I'm alive.
Not much of a review this year, I've been mostly below the radar...
I found out in early spring that I was pregnant, a surprise, but a good one. It was a quite difficult pregnancy with me being on sick leave for a few months, and when our beautiful baby girl (lovingly nicknamed Kidlet) was born in October she didn't leave me with any spare time for costuming either ;o)
But of course she's oh so worth it! =)

Fortunately I didn't set any written in blood goals for 2011, only listed a few hopes, two of which I actually made, and then some other few tidbits for our Tolkien society event Bokskogen and some baby stuff (none of which I ever posted about, sorry, but it's coming).

Finished projects this year
• 18th C kci redstriped jacket FEB
• 10th C handsewn viking underdress (room for baby bump) JULY
• 10th C handsewn viking apron dress (room for baby bump) JULY
• 10th C undershirt for Jo JULY
• 10th C viking tunic for Jo JULY
• 10th C viking pants for Jo JULY
• 10th C handsewn shift for Kidlet NOV
• 2 breastfeeding pillows NOV
• baby mattress cover DEC

I had dubbed 2011 the year of Simplifying, I didn't want any must-dos, obligations or expectations to kill my sewing mojo, but as it turned out I didn't get very much use of that resolution anyway... ;o)

2012 - the year of DOWNSCALING!

I'm really going to lower my own expectations this year!
However, we do have a jubilee for the Tolkien society so I'm hoping to crank out at least one fancy costume each for Jo and me.

Wishes for 2012: (S=stashed fabric)
• 16th C Kampfrau for the jubilee
• 16th C Sture suit for Jo for the jubilee

and IF IF IF there's more time and energy it would be nice to make
• 16th C flemish some last changes
• 10th C viking jacket for Jo
• 15th C french working class dress
• 18th C pet en l'air or pierrot


(If you're interested, here are my reviews from 2007, 2008, 2009 and 2010

With my lack of updates you'd be guessing that nothing's getting done over here, but that's actually far from the truth, I've just devoted my precious time to sewing instead of updating. At this point the lining of the jacket is done, meaning that the patterning has been tweaked and adjusted into perfection for the outer fabric.

I did make a muslin first, this was based on a slightly altered version of my trusted 18th C bodice pattern.


The fit worked well, so then I went ahead and made some changes to the pattern to get the characteristics of the jacket - the overlapping front bodice with a wider CF bottom, the small skirt at the back, and slightly higher neckline etc. I tried that on the lining straight away since they weren't major changes and I do have plenty of that fabric. This was last weekend and all was hunkydory.


Then came monday, bringing teh Sleevils. Sigh. My first (ever) attempt at making a twopart long sleeve turned out awful. The angle at the elbow was too small and the width was too generous and the whole thing fit horribly into the bodice armscye. So on tuesday night I started drafting a new pair, a Franken-pattern that is based on the onepart short sleeve that I'd previously drafted to use with the original bodice (because then at least I knew it would fit into the scye), with a lot of guesswork and trying to imitate the twopart sleeve for the pierrot in "Kvinnligt Mode". The good thing is that I can now use this sleeve pattern for when I make that pierrot, in some other life.


I first tried out that new sleeve pattern by pinning the pattern (drawn on a plastic bag) on my arm, and after that made it up in the lining fabric. It worked out great. Now they are attached to the bodice and I'm ready to get started on the striped silk outer fabric.

In between, I've also worked on a little fichu, just a triangular piece of cotton voile that I've hemmed by hand while watching telly.
If I stick to my plan of sewing every night, I might just finish in time for the Your Wardrobe Unlock'd Double Period Project deadline, and in an ideal world I'll get all the accessories made too ;o)

Right, when I summed up the year it seemed like there were quite a few projects that I never showed you guys pictures of, so I'm gonna get right on to that.

The 16th century flemish ensemble isn't technically finished, since the overgown still needs a few eyelets and a hem, but I, being clever for once, made the kirtle of wool too, so both can be worn as outer garments, meaning the kirtle and co have actually been worn to 3 events already.

Meaning I shoulda been a good girl and posted some pictures. ;o)


Everything is handsewn with waxed linen thread.

The first two pictures are a somewhat anachronistic homage to all the flemish women Aertsen painted at the stove or generally in the kitchen. The third pic, at Visby Medieval Week, is showing the versatility of removable sleeves and partlets. I really love that aspect of the flemish. Once I've finished the gown and its matching new blue sleeves there'll be lots of combo possiblities! =)

This year really hasn't felt very productive, what with a new job, and life, the universe and everything ;)
But still, some things were accomplished and now's the time to be proud and not mope about coulda woulda shoulda! =)


Some pictorial highlights:


I had 14 projects planned for 2009 and I actually made 14, just not exactly the ones planned...
My goal was to use stashed fabrics as much as possible 2010, indicated by S

Finished projects this year
• 18th C pockets to match stays S FEB
• 18th C bjd gentleman's waistcoat S FEB
• 18th C waistcoat for Jo MAR
• 18th C cravatte for Jo S MAR
• faux fur jacket S APR
• 16th C handsewn flemish wool partlet MAY
• 16th C handsewn flemish linen partlet MAY
• 16th C handsewn flemish kirtle MAY
• 18th C bjd fur breeches S AUG
• wedding dress for Sister-in-law SEP
• 18th C CC-U pondicherry jacket S OCT
• 18th C bumroll to match stays S NOV
• 18th C picture hat S DEC
• faux fur hat S DEC

I realise now that I havn't posted pictures of half of these finished projects. Oups.

The stash resolution worked out quite well, the flemish I'd already made exceptions for (plus I got those fabrics for my b-day) and the wedding dress commission bloody well had to get new fabrics ;o)

I also kept up the 2009 resolution to only work on 3 projects at a time!

This year I'm going to try to get back into the swing of things and the joy of sewing by simplifying. I easily get caught up in things and get too ambitious. Not posting here because I don't have fabulous pictures to share with my updates; going nuts on handsewing and accuracy; stressing myself into crazy deadlines; over-ambitious projects...

F*ck that!
I don't want any must-dos, obligations or expectations to kill my sewing mojo this year!

2011 - the year of SIMPLIFYING!

In honor of this, I'm not making any plans for this year, but here are a few things that I hope to WANT to do =)

Wishes for 2011: (S=stashed fabric)
• 18th C kci redstriped jacket S STARTED
• 18th C blue/bronze Georgiana for me and/or bjd S
• 18th C pink and/or green floral anglaise for myself and/or bjd S
• 10th C viking for Jo
• 18th C pierrot pink striped S
• 15th C french working class


(If you're interested, here are my reviews from 2007, 2008 and 2009

With giftmas around the corner things have been rather hectic, especially with a bout of sinusitis to spice things up. Which means that I havn't started anything major, but sewing in front of the tv is perfect when home sick, so I decided a slightly smaller project would be perfect. Accessories are always fun, and as it happens, I did have some planned for the Your Wardrobe Unlock'd Double Period Project. So I got cracking on the Gainsbourough hat, something I've been meaning to make for ages and had all the ingredients for =)

The Gainsborough hat, or Picture hat, or Devonshire hat was made famous by Georgiana Cavendish, the duchess of Devonshire, in her portrait by Gainsborough. All of a sudden everyone wanted a huge black hat with a big ribbon and a sway of ostrich feathers. Being a true fashionista, of course I wanted one too, some hundred years later ;o)

There are millions of ways to cover a hat, but here's my way if anyone's interested.

Here are the raw materials, a straw hat to cover, silk, wire, ostrich feathers, buckle, and ribbon. I first chose that ribbon because it almost matches the one in the Georgina film, but it didn't match the jacket fabric so well so I'm probably going to use something else. First the a wire is sewn to the frame so that the hat will keep its shape when worn. The ends are secured with electrical tape.


The brim and crown are measured and traced on folded fabric. The brim is stitched and the crown cut out. Then the brim cover is wiggled onto the straw hat, this can be a bit of a struggle. The height and circumference of the crown is measured and a corresponding rectangle is cut out to which the top of the crown is sewn. My crown was a bit tapered so the side crown had to be gathered a little, but this will be covered by the ribbon. This is then pinned and stitched to the straw hat.


I use a millinary needle that is curved for these seams, they are very handy! Then the brim cover is turned under, pinned and stitched on top of the side crown. Turn under and sew the bottom side to the straw hat too for a nice finish without fraying. And that's it. It's ready to be decorated, the fun part! I can't wait!

In an attempt to get to know the KCI jacket a little better (so I'll at least know what it should look like before I deviate from it ;), I've been pouring over the great zoom in function on the KCI website to get up close and personal with my new friend.


Here are some points of interest:


There's no side seam visible, meaning the front will have to be patterned to go quite far back. This isn't unusual in 18th C clothing.


A cute stitch shows where the outer fabric and lining has been joined, telling us about the construction.


The cuff is really pretty, and makes me a little nervous trying to figure it out, but I guess I'll have to mock it up until I get something resembling the original.


The collar is pinked and scalloped, it will probably need fraychecking. It has a seam half way up to the shoulder. The way it looks slightly torn between the two pieces of the collar, and the lines of the stripes makes me think that the collar's been cut as one with the bodice up to the seam. I'll have to do a scale test to see if that's possible.


A close-up of the silver-coloured buttons, need to find something like it.


And here's my biggest conundrum - the back. As far as I know there are no pictures of the back of this jacket, please tell me if you know of any!

It looks like the back's laying very fat to the skirt and is just one rounded point, but it's described as a pierrot, and those usually have a flared peplum like this one or this one.
However, here's one that seems like it would lie quite flat. It's buttoned up and has got a collar not totally unlike the KCI jacket and is from 1785, so around the same time. The peplum might be sewn shut or it might have boxpleats in the back, I seem to see some brown curves from the lining at the bottom but I'm not quite sure.

Here at mme_du_jard's flickr I found a real a gem though, a pierrot with views from all angles! And in the side view the back looks identical to the KCI! It's got a very similar collar to the KCI jacket too, even with the same seam placement halfway up the shoulder. And from the back view you can see that even though it lies flat, it has an intricate pleating in the peplum! The only discrepancy is that the peplum side seems to be cut apart from the bodice, which it looks like the KCI isn't, but I'm hoping that's just a matter of adjustment.

I can't decide whether to make that kind of intricate peplum or play safe with a rounded point.

But either way - I'm loving my jacket more the more I drool look at it =)

Have you all heard of the Your Wardrobe Unlock'd Double Period Project? It's a costume competition focusing on two periods, this year it's the victorian natural form era 1876-1882, and the Revolutionary period of 1770-1789.
As you might have guessed I was one of the lobbyists for the revolutionary era ;o)

So having lobbyed I suppose I should fess up and make an entry, right? =)

As it happened I had long planned to make the Kyoto Costume Institute's gorgeous redstriped jacket, so with the DPP in mind I had put it on the list of projects for this year, and it being November now, it's high time to get cracking. I've secretly worked on some of the accessories already without mentioning the DPP in case I chickened out or never had the time to make it, but now that the jacket will be in the making I thought I might as well make it official ;o) Here's a rundown of my planned outfit • Redstriped Jacket • Gainsborough picture hat • Sheer striped Petticoat from 2009 • Fichu • Miniature portait in a black ribbon started • Cockade • Stays finished • pockets finished • Bum roll finished I've got the perfect striped silk that I bought in 2009 specificly for this project. Now, where to set my standards - to handsew or not to handsew? Will I have the time to handsew? Will I have the time even with the machine? ;o)

Ever since I finished my scalamandre stays I wanted to make some accessories for them. In February I made a matching pocket and now I fianlly made myself a new bum roll.

My old bum roll was very ungainly and gave the wrong siloutte - it stood out too much and didn't have the soft sloping giant ass from period paintings. Also it went all the way around my waist which looked really weird from the front. I've been eager to try out the petal shaped variety, so with both means and motive, I was ready to rock!

And here's the result, my new handsewn bum.


It might be a tad too small, but the old one was way to large, and this one gives a much better shape. Might make a medium sized one in the future ;o)

Remember this old thing?
Can't blame you, cos well, I didn't...
It was the Your Wardrobe Unlock'd corest I started back in 2008. I found it while cleaning out my wardrobe and after my 'little' selfimposed sewing hiatus after finishing my sister in law's wedding dress, this seemed like a great thing to start, as it would be relatively easy to finish. =)
This was the dummy:


I had already made it up this far in 2008, and this October I've worked on it during two corsetry group tuesdays and I'm happy to say I'm on the finishing stretch. First it needed some adjustments since I was a tad thinner back when. That was easy enough since the sideseams where only basted. Then it was time for boning. The back canals next to the eyelets were already boned with spring steel. But I really liked the clean outside without canals, so for the spiral steel I decided to go for bone casings sewn onto the lining in between the layers. Lucky me again the side seams were only basted, so after marking the changes I ripped them up, sewed the casings on and then restitched the sideseams. This way the seams for the casings show on the inside, but not the casings themselves, and I really like the clean look. The boning at the side is stuck into the serged seam allowance which will be stitched down. Again, nice and clean.

Something not so clean though, I managed to bleed on the white corset after a pinprick, oups. But I guess it ain't a real project till you bled on it, right? ;o)

I won't make it to corstery tuesday for two weeks, but basicly I'm only bias binding and pimping away from a finished corset. Yay!